Controllers, Displays, Sensors & Wiring

All of it. This is the main reason to call me instead of a general mobile bike mechanic. Most mobile bike services in Orange County explicitly decline battery, motor, throttle, and controller work, which means a bike with an electrical fault has nowhere local to go. I diagnose and repair charge ports, battery management systems, controllers, displays, throttles, cadence and torque sensors, brake cut-off switches, wiring harnesses, and hub and mid-drive motors — plus everything mechanical.

Every brand. That includes direct-to-consumer bikes with no local dealer — Rad Power, Aventon, Lectric, Ride1Up, Velotric, Heybike, Himiway, Juiced, Super73, Segway — and dealer brands like Specialized Turbo, Trek, Giant, Cannondale, Electra, Gazelle, Tern, Pedego, Blix, Magnum, and Riese & Müller. On the motor side I work on Bosch, Shimano STEPS, Brose, Yamaha, Bafang, Fazua, Mahle, and generic hub systems. One honest caveat: Bosch and some Shimano systems lock firmware and certain diagnostics to authorized dealers. I can do every mechanical and electrical repair on those bikes and I'll tell you upfront on the rare occasion something has to go through a dealer.

Probably not, and this is the most expensive assumption in e-bike ownership. Lost range has at least five common causes and only one of them is a worn battery: low tire pressure, a dragging brake rotor, a worn or dry chain, colder weather, corroded battery mount contacts, and actual capacity fade all produce the identical symptom. A $59 battery health test measures capacity against the pack's rated watt-hours and checks balance across cell groups, which tells you definitively which it is. That fee is waived if you have me do the repair. A new pack is $400 to $1,200 — it's worth $59 to find out whether you need one.

90 days on all labor. If something I worked on isn't right afterward, I come back and fix it — no trip fee, no argument, in any zone. Parts carry whatever warranty the manufacturer provides and I'll handle the claim paperwork with the brand for you.

Three things go to the bench rather than the driveway: cell-level battery pack repair (opening a lithium pack in a customer's garage isn't something a careful technician does), full wheel rebuilds and rim replacement, and internal motor rebuilds that need a press. For all three I pick the part or the bike up and bring it back, usually within two to four days. Everything else — including motor removal and reinstall, controller and display replacement, harness repair, brake bleeds, and full tune-ups — happens where your bike is.

No. The van carries its own power, lighting, compressed air, and water. All I need is a flat spot roughly the size of a parking space, within reason of where the bike is. Driveway, street, garage, courtyard, parking lot, or a turnout on a Laguna hillside all work fine.

Only at the start and the end. I need five minutes with you at the beginning to understand what the bike is doing and to confirm the quote, and five minutes at the end to hand it back and show you what changed. In between you can go to work, take a call, or leave entirely.

It depends on the system, because every maker numbers its own faults: 21 is a speed sensor fault on a Bafang display but abnormal current on a Rad, and Shimano's codes start with W or E. The free error code lookup has the makers' own tables for Bafang, Bosch, Shimano STEPS, Rad Power Bikes, KT and Segway-Ninebot, with the maker's first step for each. If a code points at the battery or charger, stop charging and riding until it's checked.