Surf Racks, Lights & Accessory Installs

Usually, yes. Side-mount surf racks attach to the seat post, the head tube, frame bosses or a rear rack depending on the design, so the first step is a fit check of your frame, your board's length and thickness, and the clearance around the battery and handlebars. Most e-bike side racks are rated for about 25 lb of board; shortboard racks suit boards around 7 to 8 feet, and longboard racks are sold for roughly 9½ to 11 feet. Install is $45 for a seat-post rack and $65 for a two-point or frame-boss rack, plus the rack.

Yes. Since January 1, 2026, every e-bike must show a red rear reflector — or a solid or flashing red light with a built-in reflector — at all hours, not just after dark (Vehicle Code §21201(f), added by AB 544). After dark, every bicycle also needs a white front light visible from 300 feet, white or yellow pedal or shoe reflectors, and side reflectors or reflective tires (§21201(d)). Light installs start at $25; wired lights that run off the e-bike's battery are $75.

Many can. A lot of e-bike controllers have a light output, so a headlight and taillight can run off the main battery with nothing extra to charge. The light has to be rated for the voltage that output supplies, and the connections need sealing against salt air. Wired installs are $75 plus the lights; battery or USB lights are $25 to install.

All of it. This is the main reason to call me instead of a general mobile bike mechanic. Most mobile bike services in Orange County explicitly decline battery, motor, throttle, and controller work, which means a bike with an electrical fault has nowhere local to go. I diagnose and repair charge ports, battery management systems, controllers, displays, throttles, cadence and torque sensors, brake cut-off switches, wiring harnesses, and hub and mid-drive motors — plus everything mechanical.

Every brand. That includes direct-to-consumer bikes with no local dealer — Rad Power, Aventon, Lectric, Ride1Up, Velotric, Heybike, Himiway, Juiced, Super73, Segway — and dealer brands like Specialized Turbo, Trek, Giant, Cannondale, Electra, Gazelle, Tern, Pedego, Blix, Magnum, and Riese & Müller. On the motor side I work on Bosch, Shimano STEPS, Brose, Yamaha, Bafang, Fazua, Mahle, and generic hub systems. One honest caveat: Bosch and some Shimano systems lock firmware and certain diagnostics to authorized dealers. I can do every mechanical and electrical repair on those bikes and I'll tell you upfront on the rare occasion something has to go through a dealer.

Probably not, and this is the most expensive assumption in e-bike ownership. Lost range has at least five common causes and only one of them is a worn battery: low tire pressure, a dragging brake rotor, a worn or dry chain, colder weather, corroded battery mount contacts, and actual capacity fade all produce the identical symptom. A $59 battery health test measures capacity against the pack's rated watt-hours and checks balance across cell groups, which tells you definitively which it is. That fee is waived if you have me do the repair. A new pack is $400 to $1,200 — it's worth $59 to find out whether you need one.

90 days on all labor. If something I worked on isn't right afterward, I come back and fix it — no trip fee, no argument, in any zone. Parts carry whatever warranty the manufacturer provides and I'll handle the claim paperwork with the brand for you.

Three things go to the bench rather than the driveway: cell-level battery pack repair (opening a lithium pack in a customer's garage isn't something a careful technician does), full wheel rebuilds and rim replacement, and internal motor rebuilds that need a press. For all three I pick the part or the bike up and bring it back, usually within two to four days. Everything else — including motor removal and reinstall, controller and display replacement, harness repair, brake bleeds, and full tune-ups — happens where your bike is.